I started Friday morning off by narrowly avoiding one of the worst bike collisions Copenhagen has seen in years. It was entirely my fault.
I was biking to Holmen to grab a pastry at Lille and check out the water. The pastry at Lille was fabulous and in hindsight, may have been my favorite so far on the trip:
PASTRY 2: Blomster from Lille
Sweet bun with assorted herbs
Sweetness: 9/10
I have a sweet tooth so I could’ve liked just a SMIDGE more. But it was quite refreshing.
Bread quality: 10/10
I wonder if I will ever have bread like this again. It had Rye / sourdough undertones but still sweet like a croissant
Freshness: 10/10
I went an hour after they opened
Presentation: 8/10
Extra points for the flecks of purple and green from the natural herbs. Really pretty. Sugar made it almost sparkly.
Satisfaction: 8/10
I’m still a little hungry, also had some nausea this morning so wasn’t super easy. Special mention to the coffee which was also gas.
The line at Lille ran long, even getting there just a few minutes after they opened. However, it moves quickly and is definitely worth the wait. Holmen is my second-favorite part of Copenhagen so it’s a lovely place to hang around as far as I’m concerned, if incredible bread isn’t a good enough reason.
I stumbled upon La Banchina on accident, and although I had my bathing suit in my bag in case, I didn’t feel brave enough to jump in. Not yet at least. It’s a lot cooler than I thought from looking online, also a must-stop if you’re ever in town.
After watching the swimmers at La Banchina, I jumped on the very easy to navigate bus line and headed to an afternoon of writing at the Royal Library. I think that I inadvertently got the best seat in the house, because there was a never ending fleet of tourists coming to look out the window directly across from the table I sequestered.
I had gone on long enough without trying a Dansk hot dog. Since I was in close proximity to the Strøget or “walking street” or basically the Soho of Copenhagen, I could feel that one was near. It would be the fuel I needed to tackle my first bout of shopping—HAY House, Naked Copenhagen, and a few other random spots on my list in the area.
My Dansk Frank was everything and more. Why do we not utilize 360 bread? It’s the only thing that makes sense.
From HAY, I got a lot of things that I can’t disclose because they are gifts, and a bag that is about three times the size I thought it was when I was initially buying it, but I’m keeping it in defiance and convinced myself I will use it for something. Every other store was unsuccessful, and I took a long walk home to get some steps in. Also because I would never get on a bike again.
For dinner I walked into OMAR. Incredible. Showstopping. Beyond. Fabulous. The best bread I have ever had in my life. The best butter I have ever had in my life. Insane mushroom toast, insane cheeses, incredible staff. A MUST GO-TO if you are here! Also in my favorite neighborhood, Nørrebro.
I then got a nightcap at Mirabelle, which felt like it was in the Dimes Square of Copenhagen, a place I knew I would find sooner rather than later.
SATURDAY
On Saturday morning, I woke up at 2 pm in shock and horror, alongside texts from my mother and boyfriend asking for signs of life. After freaking out for about ten minutes, I jumped on the metro determined to go for a swim. I went back to La Bachina and had some lovely Irish gals watch my bag while I plunged into the frigid sea.
It was a feeling I had never had before. My body was sore from sleeping for so long, and there wasn’t an empty spot on the dock. The water was salty but clear, it was warmer than a cold plunge but still colder than any pool you’d voluntarily leisure in. I felt my muscles contract and my breathing steadied into a deep rhythm, I floated on my back and did breast stroke through the throngs of people. It was everything I needed.
When La Bachina is too crowded to eat or even order, Toll Havs Kiosk is a great place for a cheap post-swim sandwich and beer. I had beer before I even had breakfast.
I ventured back to the Airbnb to get ready for dinner and go for a long walk before. Saturday night was the evening I reserved to have my nicest dinner, a contemporary Copenhagen dining experience at Admiralgade 26, a Michelin-star restaurant.
While overall I enjoyed my experience at OMAR more, I really loved Admiralgade and was so happy I did that for myself. Their staff was also extraordinary, and as I ate I finished Sorrow and Bliss by Meg Mason, one of the best books I have ever read—a book that makes me determined to finish one of my own (baby steps, is all I have to say about that).
After dinner I went on another long walk and got a nightcap at Cafe Gavlen, a place I equated to the Danish Clandestino. I then went to bed at 2:30 AM because I had woken up only 12 hours earlier.
SUNDAY
Yesterday, I woke up early to be at Original Coffee when it opened so that I could get some work done, the work that I was supposed to be doing Saturday. I would not recommend Original Coffee and realized it was kind of like me sitting inside of Blank Street to do work (quality wise), but the view was amazing.
I then rushed home because I was scheduled to go on a Hey Captain boat tour at 12:20. This was the best part of the trip for me. It was only an hour, my captain Marie was a lot of fun, and it was nice to get to meet some people while I was here. My fellow sailors. Highly recommend since it was only about $30 USD.
After the boat I was ravenous, so I went full method Anthony Bourdain and had a bowl of pho from Pho Hanoi. This was zero frills, in and out in just a matter of minutes. Good, but not worth the money for what I could’ve gotten better at half of the price in New York, but that’s what I get for opting for Vietnamese food in Denmark.
Then, I really hit the ground running re: vintage shopping. Everyone was right and I was wrong, it is incredible here and way better than in New York, all in price, curation, and store staff kindness.
I walked along and near Elmegade in Nørrebro because that’s where most vintage shops are. Scoop Vintage was where I found the most success, including these Nike capris, a flowy silk shirt, and this dress that I have absolutely nowhere to wear to. The pink sweater was what I got from da capo vintage.
I spent the rest of the afternoon working and resting before I stopped at Paloma Vermuteria for wine, cheese, and a pilsner.
So good
You look gorgeous and it looks like you are having a fabulous visit! Enjoy! (I'm hungry now.)